Day 28
I feel like everything changed today. It’s solidly fall now — leaves are the color red wine, saffron, or bandaids — and the weather turned cold (40 degrees F) and misty. From Astorga, the path climbs all day long until you smell pine needles. The villages look different now, all gray stone and mossy. Stone walls are everywhere, lined with wet hollyhocks. Real fires crackle away in dark little cafes and even the dogs have jackets on. I LOVE IT. I LOVE IT I LOVE IT I LOVE IT. We’ve been on the plains for like 2 weeks almost now and today’s different scenery is so welcome that it feels magic, like we’re exploring somewhere brand new.
